Mennonite
Central
Committee

Living Along Ancient Nile Puts Manitoba History In New Perspective

Gladys Terichow
June 5, 2006

The mere mention of the Nile River evokes images of a serene majestic river that has been the lifeblood of Egypt for 50 centuries.

"I live on the Nile, I see it everyday—it's mind boggling," exclaims Nelson Heppner, a Canadian working in Egypt under MCC's one-year SALT (Serving and Learning Together) program for young adults. "I sometimes ask myself, what am I doing in Egypt? I'm in Egypt—is this really true?"

Living on the banks of this historic river and meeting people whose ancestral roots in Egypt date back thousands of years has ignited his interest to learn more about the country's history, religions and cultures.

The country has a population of 76 million; over 95 per cent live on the fertile land bordering the great river. About 50 per cent of the population live or work within 150-kilometres of Cairo.

"It's a completely different world," says Heppner, noting anything older than 100 years is considered historic in his hometown of Steinbach in Southern Manitoba, a city of about 10,000 people. "Southern Manitoba is a newcomer in world history. Steinbach is 130 years old—here that is new stuff. The 80-year old tractor at the Mennonite Heritage Village seems rather insignificant in comparison to Egypt's history."

Heppner lives in Upper Egypt (southern part of the country) at a Coptic Orthodox church retreat centre across the river from Beni Suef, a provincial capital of about 200,000 people 120 kilometres south of Cairo. He assists teachers in the English program at the church's elementary school in New Beni Suef, a new planned city across the Nile River from Beni Suef. He also teaches English classes for adults three evenings a week.

When he is not in a classroom setting he is still teaching English. He says it may appear to others that he is "sitting on the Nile and watching life go by" but he is never alone when he sits on the riverbank. "Everyone wants to talk with foreigners and practice speaking English," he says, adding English language skills help people get better jobs in Egypt.

Although he misses times of solitude and independence, the constant interaction with people helps him practice speaking the Arabic language and learn more about the people and the country.

Living in Egypt, he says, reminds him of biblical stories relating to Egypt. Most of the familiar stories are found in the Old Testament but one of the most significant events that continues to be celebrated in Egypt is recorded in the New Testament—Mary and Joseph's flight to Egypt when Jesus was an infant. Although Beni Suef is not an official site on the map that traces the route of the Holy Family, the church has sacred landmarks in the region to commemorate the journey.

He has also seen the cedar of Lebanon mentioned in the Bible, visited the holy sites in Jerusalem and Bethlehem and traveled to Petra and Jordan. "I'm just soaking up the history of the whole area," he explains.

About once a month, he takes the train to Cairo to participate in events organized by MCC and visit historic sites and tourist attractions. His favourite tourist attractions are the pyramids of Giza, historic churches built in the fifth and sixth century and the Egyptian museum. He also enjoys the Khan al-Khalili market—an immense conglomeration of markets and shops.

After spending a weekend in Cairo, a city of 17 million people, he is always happy to return to Beni Suef. "Cairo is a crazy city—it's so crowded and noisy and the traffic is terrible. After spending a weekend in Cairo I'm ready to come home—this is so relaxed and laid back compared to Cairo."

Heppner's one-year term ends in July. He is one of 58 young adults from North America living and working in developing countries under MCC's SALT program.

MCC has been placing service workers in Egyptian church settings since 1973. This involvements grew out of relationships MCC built when sending relief shipments in response to devastation caused by the 1967 war between Egypt and Israel.

 

Gladys Terichow is a writer for MCC.